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DARK MEAT ALERT: @hillfarmstead Civil Disobedience 12, CHARLIE MURPHY SAISON EXPLOITS

Clipping right along in the realm of being disobedient and uncivil, we get the notorious “dark saison 4th release” entry in the canon: Civil Disobedience 12. Every fourth bottle in this series is an iteration of a dark saison/wild ale and usually leads to polarizing reviews as the average bourbon county coveter two years fresh out of undergrad has no business fucking with black Saisons. Maybe no one does.

Let’s get a taste of that black tar in today’s review.

DDB is down with brown town

DDB is down with brown town

Hill Farmstead, Vermont (oh no way)
Black blended barrel aged saison aka that BBBaS, 8.1%abv, I made all this up. No one reads this.

Hold on to your uncircumsized cocks for the spoiler alert of the year: this saison is dark. It pours with perfect carb, bubbling upward with silky mocha frap crema, looking more like a bottle of Everett at first glance. It has minimal cling and sheets in a slick watery way, running that dark dress upwards indicating the acidic experience contained therein.

Post full size because Trady complained about small pics/penis

Post full size because Trady complained about small pics/penis

The nose is the collision of two odd worlds destroying themselves in a fruit meets chocolate singularity. The blackest of holes. You get a sort of tangerine and clementine with red wine oak at the outset but wait for the beat to drop, 160bpm waves of cocoa and nestle quik Rush in quickly behind with this discordant cacophony of conflicting olfactory zones. Some people love this type of shit: the Pipeworks Orange abduction, HF daybreak and to a lesser extent BCBS bramble fall in this mixed bag of dark malty hatred. I can’t get on board with it and my prejudices against these types of beers are well documented so take my impressions with a chocolate fondue slice of navel orange.

The taste carries more of a vinous character and pushes chocolate milk meets Bordeaux, creamy acidity itself feeling like an inherent contradiction throughout. Again, some people open up incognito tabs and grind that coffee bean to these types of beers and I don’t understand that deviant behavior. I don’t like tart of darkness and the vast majority of dark wilds or black saisons. If you like this space docking of malty chocolate foreskin rolling over acidic fruit, then by all means.

I just hope this big dark girth is enough to Trady standards

I just hope this big dark girth is enough to Trady standards

If you loved Edith, you will think this is dope as fuck. It is well attenuated and for a highly-attenuated audience. Oh shit peep that parallel structuring. While I loved Cd4, and was fairly jazzed about cd8, this falls closer to the realm of Jim/Jimmy in HF offerings I wouldn’t actively seek out.

Like all things, HF had the misfortune of inherently being compared to their own body of work so it feels like being the Pitchfork Media asshole who criticizes Mars Volta for doing something polarizing and experimental. It is unquestionably well made but feels like those spacey malty tracks that go on forever and it loses me.

Drink dark saisons, acquire new powers

Drink dark saisons, acquire new powers

What should you drink instead of this? If you are dead set on this style, you could go with Edith, the Nightmare on Brett series, Guillermo Prunus/etc, one of the oddball Sara dark saison offerings like farmhouse noire, or something in that same realm.

Like Phish, the people who love this ridiculous shit will love it so hard that no one else will need to deal with it. And that is fine, have your chocolate covered grapes and 9 minute guitar solos, leave me out of it.

boosting on them dark malts, dropped E tanks

boosting on them dark malts, dropped E tanks

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OH SHIT FORTUNE MAGAZINE FIGURED OUT HOW TO LAND MASSIVE WHALES. Trigger Warning

Welp, we had a good run here at DDB, posting 300 bottle count runs, shit from the 90s, and random oddball extinct bottles: FORTUNE MAGAZINE FIGURED OUT HOW TO LAND MASSIVE WHALES and exposed the game to the masses.

https://fortune.com/2015/05/30/how-i-tracked-down-those-elusive-trophy-craft-beer-whales/

Wait, full disclosure, Fortune magazine is using the word “whales” to mean “nationally distributed 12,000+ bottle releases available by the case.”  But that’s basically the same shit as Bullfrog Beekeeper right? I’ll allow the newmoney dipshits to Google “Beekeeper” before I continue. At any rate, the jig is up.  All the whales now belong to beta casual finance assholes who wear mid thigh pastel shorts and boat shoes and Pengiun polos.  Sorry, beer nerds.

BRO DID YOU GET THE NEW RELEASE OF DAVE? ME TOO SEE YOUR AT THE ORACLE BOAT RACE

BRO DID YOU GET THE NEW RELEASE OF DAVE? ME TOO SEE YOU AT THE ORACLE BOAT RACE

So if you want to know the secret to landing sick whales, the author shockingly shares this gem of information with the unclean masses “I happened to notice a small sign at my local Total Wine store, acknowledging they had a small amount in stock.”  You will need to go to a bigbox retailer with massive distributing contracts, and look for a sign in the window.  I trust you will all head down to Binny’s clamouring for bottles of Malvassia Rosso, looking for these elusive signs like obese dudes fawning over Cosplay models at Comicon.

Anomalously, Chris Morris notes “The intense drive of some beer lovers to land a whale can take some of the fun out of the process,”  but wait, you just told us we just need to walk up to a Bevmo and ask for Loerik, I am getting serious mixed signals here.  Then further muddying the waters he mentions a series of brewery only WOMGWHALES from Jester King, which never see the interior of a Total Wine.  SO WHAT AM I SUPPOSED TO BELIEVE.

BRB getting my craft beer news from a Time-owned publication that ranks the top 500 most profitable companies in the world

BRB getting my craft beer news from a Time-owned publication that ranks the top 500 most profitable companies in the world

Hang on here Chris Morris, are you telling me in your infinte wisdom that my retail whale chasing is gonna lead me to bottles that are somehow ONLY AVAILABLE AT THE BREWERY?  I don’t believe you Mr. Morris.  Your bullshit clickbait headline seemed so trustworthy.  I thought I would be pouring Ann down my mantits by the end of the workday.  Next you are gonna tell me that I need to open up a Fedex account and ship beer to other repugnant covetous dipshits spurned by your yellowale journalism to land other beers.

"even if you have no interest in beer and drink shitty Scotch because WCJ tells you to, you can buy rare beers and resell them as a commodity for huge profits," THANKS FORTUNE MAGAZINE GOOD LOOKING OUT

“even if you have no interest in beer and drink shitty Scotch because WSJ tells you to, you can buy rare beers and resell them as a commodity for huge profits,” THANKS FORTUNE MAGAZINE GOOD LOOKING OUT

I dont know what to believe anymore.  Fortune Magainze was always my goto resource for beer news/why it isnt a good time to buy gold/explanations why minority workers make less money, but in light of all this, I might just have to switch back to Esquire Magazine for the irreproachable journalistic integrity/advice on calfskin messenger bags.

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The Ultimate Farmhouse Voltron @Hillfarmstead Civil Disobedience 11, The Saison Megazord

Alright, keeping things on track with arguably the whaliest beer that HF has ever made outside of Ann, is this staggering amalgamate of the best the saison world has to offer.  At ~300 bottles, 1 per person, this caused a massive rift in the trading community and the butthurt was palpable, salty alligator tears rolling down Dorito dusted beards. So what is the deal with this FINAL BOSS GOD TIER FARMHOUSE LOOT? This is like post-game optional quest level shit here:

“Composed of Anna aged in barrels that previously held Mimosa, E., and Juicy, blended with Anna that was aged in barrels that previously held Civil Disobedience 3 and 5. Delicate, elegant, complex, and effervescent.”

Does it seriously get any better than that? Those are like nocturnal emissions mixed with microflora. Let’s get down to this rustic ratchet in today’s review.

Got musky emo tears, beer looking like a bowl of oranges

Got musky emo tears, beer looking like a bowl of oranges

Hill Farmstead, Vermont (you know this already)

Blended BA saison, abv? Let’s call it 7.69%

This beer also gushed like an obese kid who lost a full dress size at fat camp. It spilled all over my tiny hovel making my shoddy granite work redolent of Vermontean esters.  The carb notwithstanding, this pours intensely orange and the whole pour feels like a PS1 cut scene where for a moment things are far less shitty, and you know it simply wont last.  It has fantastic cling and sheets rings the entire way down as though it had a modicum of spelt boosting those unfermentable solids.  Svelte, radiant, oddly beautiful like Emma Stone in BIrdman.

Look at me.  Look at me. I am the saison captain now.  I am the farmhouse captain.

Look at me. Look at me. I am the saison captain now. I am the farmhouse captain.

The nose continues the pageantry in a way that is unparalleled by even Shaun Hill standards.  In the struggle for their own dominance over their own product this grip the tail of Ann and the throat of Art and co-dominance is established like some acidic alleles contributing this master race phenotype.  I hope you didn’t fail high school biology, otherwise Ctrl+T that shit. There is intense orange, grand marnier meets cut construction paper, wet Jansport backpacks, bikes in the rain covered in Donald Duck orange juice, crushes leaves, bittering conifer aspects on the closer and this sweetly acidic finish like a Jamba Juice peach dream.  It is frustratingly enticing to a fault.

Hit that bottle spread eagle, label cocked open like that Jordan logo

Hit that bottle spread eagle, label cocked open like that Jordan logo

The taste is creamy orange julius from the mall with brett C funk contributing an aged cheddar cheesiness to the gumline, the most refined acidity this side of BA Cellarman, crisp anjou pear dryness on the swallow that lingers with a clementine pithy bitterness.  It is orange and cuties through and through with massive cascading waves of bitterness, acidity and funk like LED lights at a TRAP show contributing to full immersion.  There is a touch of imperfect honey sweetness that is perceptible that has a sweet meets mineral character, but this is literally the only fault I can detect after assiduously prying apart this entire 750ml solo.

Liquefy this photo in its purest platonic form and imbibe it

Liquefy this photo in its purest platonic form and imbibe it

In sum this is the pinnacle of the HF catalog and only Ann and Art can stand as coherent rivals to this crown.  It easily stands in the top 10 best saisons I have ever had in my life and I can’t imagine someone walking the razors edge of funk, musk, acidity, and drinkability.  It takes the best aspects of all prior saisons and unites them in defiance of a composition fallacy that I had ready to toss like critical shurikens.  One guy wanted Fou + Hommage for this bottle 2:1 and, while this will rock the Belgian lambic-curator dipshits to their core, it is hands down worth it,  It exists as a pinnacle of the most nuanced of genres and flat out runs at even clip with the best lambics I have ever had.

Past and present progressive  rusticity

Past and present progressive rusticity

Writing favorable reviews is shitty, but I have to doff my coal dusted Dickensian cap when shit operates on this tier.

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Civil Disobedience 9, because @Hillfarmstead Simply Will Not Obey Societal Mandates

For those of you who have DDB posters on they walls all day long, idolize the Youtube videos and know all them songs, you may have realized that DDB has reviewed every single Civil Disobedience except #9.  This wasn’t some intentional slight, for some reason when this dropped those VT tickers wanted to test the elasticity of DDB’s frail anus to a point that was unbearable.  Like all things, my pink sock has grown in fortitude in the intervening months, so we can now FINALLY review this bad ratchet.

When you hit adulthood, life is about making cogent financial decisions, like spending $13 on a Billy Ocean single on vinyl

When you hit adulthood, life is about making cogent financial decisions, like spending $13 on a Billy Ocean single on vinyl

Hillfarmstead, Vermont (no shit)

XXXX% abv, let’s call it 6.9% abv, barrel aged saison (no shit)

Commercial Reacharound:

“A single wine barrel blend of farmstead ales aged for nearly a year. Pale, citrusy and pleasantly tart.”

The appearance is a touch more orangey orange, radiant sun and less of the paleypale of Florence/Flora and company.  The carb leaves your house looking like a Gallagher show, foamy detonation everywhere.  When it hits the glass things settle down like when you ask the housekeeper where your tennis bracelet went. It has gentle cling, not like your Philipino ex-gf, but enough.

CD9 WALKED ON BY IN PAINTED ON JEANS

CD9 WALKED ON BY IN PAINTED ON JEANS

The nose on this beer is an interesting entry and the overarching milieu is “rind” and I mean that as the Hephaestean mold from which all aspects of this beer is forged.  You get grapefruit rind, honeydew rind, pineapple rind, and gruyere cheese rind.  It has a gristy touch of biscuit, so I guess “Biscuit rind” if you are really shitty at baking.  There seems to be a lingering faded hop element that comes across as a form of dry bitterness similar to what Sue was working with, but this adds a blast of charming fruits to keep its face down like Terry Sawchuck getting blasted in the domepiece.

The taste is the most bitter of the Civil Disobedience entries and honestly reminds me quite a bit of an off-brand Juicy.  It is hoppy but not distractingly so, kinda like that resinous old aspect, hop cones that fought in the battle of the Marne and have seen some shit in their day. It is dry and tart, pleasantly greek yogurty in the mouthfeel, a creamy crackle like Trix cereal after you eat all the fruits and you’re left with this lightly tart sweet dankness. Silly trader, ticks are for permavirGINs.

I mean, HF could spend their time with other pursuits, if you really want that-

I mean, HF could spend their time with other pursuits, if you really want that-

The finish is long and fulfilling, like that final episode of Parenthood where Zeke dies. OH SHIT SPOILER ALERT FOR ALL MY MENOPAUSAL FANS. It exhibits a fair degree of oaky woodiness, but the residual hops come across like that white grist from an orange when you peel it like shit.  L2PEEL FUXER.

When people ask you how to land HF bottles, it be like-

When people ask you how to land HF bottles, it be like-

Should you trade for this? Absolutely, it is phenomenal and you will get a glimpse into some of the more untouchable offerings from HF at a far more “accessible” cost of entry (read: only a single Veritas instead of 4.) What should you drink instead of this? Something incredible similar is either 1) Surette Reserva Dry Hopped OR 2) Crooked Stave WWB Batch 50, they taste astoundingly similar to this and your butthole will remain unfettered.

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Tioga Sequoia Catacomb Brew, a vanilla saison that exhibits neither of those properties

 A vanilla saison with zero vanilla is almost praiseworthy in itself, thoroughly unremarkable in the classic sense, I have nothing to say about this forgettable offering.
If midwest vanilla beans can magically endure in bcbs for 5 years allegedly without fading at all, I refuse to believe that this was a totally different beer when it was fresh. It wasn’t offensive or objectionable, and as a standalone Saison it was a phoned in dupont strain fermented at low temps.

I mean, it is fine, I guess?

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Red white and blue(/black Flora), Happy Memorial Day @hillfarmstead

 
I was blown away by satsuma Flora, pleased with blueberry Flora, and in the wake of the recent black Currant Smog city saison, couldn’t wait to try this bad ratchet.

The pour is, as to be expected, Sofia Vegarra-tier beautiful. Radiant hues of violet and off pink carb sit atop this precious stone translucence. Bursting with blood red hues like when you stop taking your Valtrex.
The nose is blackberry jam with a dry Riesling aspect to it, farmers market meets prosecco with a lightly backish spray to it like you are on worlds ballerest catch.

The taste is a unique hybrid of tart, crisp Berry and this lingering cheesiness and oak. The result is a kind of odd “protofruit” character where you can’t pick out the individual nuances of the fruits but it feels like “fruits ET al.” It is hard to fault a beer for using a component fruit blend, but it becomes difficult for me to pick out its “intent” beyond the scope of “wild ale with fruit.” In the way that Sara fruit punch 1 suffered from this bipolar execution, it is incredibly refreshing and hits all the right marks without the clear depth of satsuma. 

 The fruit on this is as real as it gets, artificially fruited Saisons: not even once. 
So should you go apeshit locking this down? It is well worthy of your time and you should put it all inside of you. Aside from the Smog City release, I can’t think of a clear analog and you could certainly do far worse in this realm. That being said, this does not quite approach the pedigree of the prior iterations of Flora, or even Flora b5 in my estimation. Which is to say, it is very good but feels more like a four door m3, the additions are subtractions by way of contrast, but you still got a sick juicy Berry whip with amazing PowerPlant and tannic underpinnings.